Article: Vintage Levi’s Denim Jackets: Type I, II, III, Labels & Fit

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Oct 14, 2026

Vintage Levi’s Denim Jackets: Type I, II, III, Labels & Fit

Vintage Levi's denim jackets are best identified by combining silhouette, pocket layout, labels and construction. “Type I,” “Type II” and “Type III” describe different design families; they are not interchangeable names for any old denim jacket. Reproductions and later interpretations also make it essential to distinguish a design's introduction from the age of the garment in front of you.

Type I, Type II and Type III at a glance

Family	Typical visual cues	Identification caution
Type I / 506 family	Single chest pocket, pleated front, older work-jacket proportions	Reproductions can recreate early construction details.
Type II / 507 family	Two chest pockets and pleated front	Pocket count alone does not establish originality or age.
Type III / 557 and later families	Pointed chest pockets and angled front seams	Many later variants retain the same recognizable silhouette.
Lined trucker variants	Sherpa-style or blanket-style interior, modified labels and fit	The lining and model code need their own examination.

These are starting points. Confirm the full garment, including the rear, fastening details and inside labels, before assigning a model.

A careful chronology of the Type III

Levi Strauss & Co.'s 2023 archive account identifies the 557 in an October 1961 catalog. Its 2017 history describes a 1962 introduction and the 70505 designation in 1967. The distinction matters: 1967 is not a reliable starting date for every Type III design.

Use “early 1960s” when discussing the design's emergence unless the specific catalog context is relevant. The 70505 transition belongs to the later model history. Neither date establishes when a particular jacket in a resale listing was made.

Two-pocket and four-pocket examples

A two-pocket Type III has the recognizable chest-pocket arrangement without the additional handwarmer pockets found on many later examples. Levi's corporate history places the addition of side pockets in the 1980s, but pocket layout should still be read alongside labels and model details, particularly when reproductions are possible.

Two-pocket Levi's Type III archive jacket cataloged as 1970s. View the original catalog record. Archive reference; the original listing controls current availability, measurements and condition. Photograph © Vintage Rare USA.

Four-pocket Levi's 71506 archive jacket cataloged as 1980s, showing the chest and lower pocket arrangement. View the original catalog record. Archive reference; the original listing controls current availability, measurements and condition. Photograph © Vintage Rare USA.

Compare these examples as complete garments. A seller's use of “single stitch” in a denim title can refer to a particular construction detail, not the T-shirt sleeve-hem convention. Ask which seam is being described.

The label and hardware checklist

Start with the neck patch and care label, then photograph the red tab, button backs and any readable lot or model information. Record characters exactly, including prefixes and suffixes. A partial code or a blurred digit can produce a misleading comparison.

Levi's neck patch on the archive 71506 jacket. View the original catalog record. Archive reference; the original listing controls current availability, measurements and condition. Photograph © Vintage Rare USA.

Red tab detail on the same jacket; tab lettering is one clue within the full garment. View the original catalog record. Archive reference; the original listing controls current availability, measurements and condition. Photograph © Vintage Rare USA.

“Big E” and “small e” refer to lettering details that collectors use in identification, but a tab is not a complete dating system. Modern reproductions can deliberately reproduce older branding. A missing or damaged tab reduces available evidence without automatically disproving the garment's age.

Button-back markings can support a coherent identification, but do not treat every stamp as a manufacture date. Compare it with the care label and documented examples of the same model and production context.

Sherpa and blanket-lined jackets

A lined denim jacket has different bulk and movement from an unlined trucker. Inspect the lining at the underarms, cuff openings and hem. Check for thinning, matting, tears or separation at the seams. A lining can conceal repairs to the outer shell, so inspect both sides where accessible.

Levi's sherpa-lined trucker from the archive, cataloged as an older lined example. View the original catalog record. Archive reference; the original listing controls current availability, measurements and condition. Photograph © Vintage Rare USA.

Do not assume “sherpa” means natural wool. Read the actual fiber label. Likewise, a blanket-like interior describes appearance and construction; it does not establish the fiber content or a guaranteed warmth rating.

Fit: short bodies, long sizes and layering

Compare chest width, back length, shoulders, sleeves and the closed hem. A jacket that fits across the chest can still be too short for your preferred silhouette. Numeric sizing and length suffixes need to be interpreted for the actual model.

A lining occupies room inside the shell. If you plan to wear a sweatshirt beneath a lined jacket, compare against a similarly lined outer layer you already own. Do not assume that an unlined jacket's measurements will produce an identical fit.

Look for sleeve or hem alterations. Shortened sleeves may change the position of cuff details; a modified body can change pocket proportions. Ask for clarification if the shape looks inconsistent with other examples of the model.

Wear, repairs and value

Inspect the collar fold, cuff edges, elbows, pocket corners and the fabric around buttons. Fading can be visually appealing while the cloth remains sound. Thin fabric, seam splits and a button pulling through weakened denim affect practical durability.

Look inside repairs. A discreet exterior patch can conceal a larger damaged area; that does not necessarily make the repair poor, but it should be described accurately. Distinguish original factory stitching from later reinforcement when the evidence allows.

Value depends on model, supported era, size, condition, originality and demand. A rare-looking wash or faded patch is not sufficient evidence of rarity. Compare completed sales of genuinely comparable examples where available rather than relying on the highest asking price.

Building a documented wardrobe

Browse Levi's denim jackets and use the individual photographs and measurements as the final comparison. For trousers, continue with dating vintage Levi's 501 jeans and the Levi's fit guide.

Does every Type III date to 1967?

No. The design family predates that year, and later production and reproductions also use the silhouette.

Are two-pocket jackets always older than four-pocket jackets?

The layout is a useful clue in a model comparison, but reproductions and variations prevent a universal rule.

Does a faded red tab prove authenticity?

No. Wear is not a certificate. Evaluate the full label set, construction and consistency of the garment.

© 2026 Vintage Rare USA. Original photography, original editorial material and editorial compilation: all rights reserved to the extent protected by law. Brand names, logos, team marks and garment artwork belong to their respective owners and are shown for identification and commentary. Vintage Rare USA is an independent vintage retailer, not affiliated with or endorsed by the brands discussed. For reproduction permissions, see our copyright and image usage policy.

Written by Vintage Rare USA